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Tuxedo or smoking jacket
The required decorum of a 19th century British gentlemen managing his guests’ sense of smell meant that the smoking jacket was originally worn exclusively in the smoking room. Seduced by the garment, the American James Potter transgressed the rule and in 1886 wore this jacket with its satin lapels to the Tuxedo Club in New York. He popularised the use of its new name. Completed with braided trousers, a plastron shirt and a bow tie, in the 20th century this ensemble became the signature attire for men frequenting casinos and cocktail parties, or her Majesty’s Secret Services, like James Bond.
Since its inception in the 18th century, this descendent of the doublet has lost its sleeves and few centimetres, but has preserved a certain refinement. Worn under a jacket, it becomes the capital element of a man’s three-piece suit.